Chickamauga was the fifth battlefield of the trip and one we really didn’t know much about. Not only is it hard to spell and occasionally hard to pronounce, it just didn’t (for us) have a big time name like Gettysburg or Antietam. So how did we miss the first and largest of the country’s Military Parks? Or what many consider the bloodiest two days of the Civil War? Only Gettysburg had more casualties than Chickamauga. Or that it was the scene of the last victory for the South in the Civil War? I don’t have a clue how we missed all that, but we were about to make amends.
Arrived at the park visitor center shortly after 8:30 and spent an unusually long time there. First there was a short movie, which gave a little background on the battle, and then a really great display area with lots of information and artifacts. However, the best part was the Fuller Collection of American Military Arms. Donated to the National Parks Service in 1954, by Claude and Zenada Fuller, it contains 346 examples of military long arms used in America. Flintlocks and Percussion. Muzzle and breach loaders. Muskets and rifles. Enfield, Spencer, Springfield and Colt. They are all there and if you are anywhere near Chattanooga, go see the collection.
And also see the park. Overall, it is probably the best so far. At 5,200 acres the park is large, but there is a comprehensive auto tour which provides many opportunities to explore on foot. Small paths lead back into the woods where monuments are hidden. And speaking of monuments, Chickamauga has over 1,400 of all sizes, placed by supporters of the park as well as soldiers who fought there. The Wilder Brigade Monument honors Colonel John T. Wilder and his brigade of mounted infantry. Armed with seven-shot Spencer repeating rifles they drove back a larger confederate force before withdrawing. For taking the fight to the confederates while the rest of the Union Army was making a hasty retreat, Wilder’s Brigade received an 85-foot tall monument that looks like a castle. Inside, a narrow circular staircase leads to an observation deck. Barb and I know all too well there are 136 steps (one way). Great park. Go there if you get the chance.
By the time we were done it was getting warm, so we headed into Chattanooga to pick up a couple bottles of water. Once refreshed, we found our way up to Lookout Mountain, which was held by the Confederates after Chattanooga fell to Union forces. From their vantage point 1,716 feet above, Confederate artillery could reach the city with ease. When Lookout Mountain and Missionary Ridge finally passed into Union hands, the door had been opened for Sherman’s march through Georgia.
Next we took a drive south along the Lookout Mountain Parkway. I want everyone to understand this was an intentional drive away from our ultimate destination. I was not lost. Barb was not convinced. Anyway, we found the Hilton and checked into a very nice room. So nice in fact that Barb has just changed our Mobile, Alabama, reservation to a Hilton. Tomorrow we continue west to Savannah, Tennessee, and Shiloh National Military Park. We visited Shiloh once before. The battlefield was great; the county was dry. 91 miles today.
Chickamauga Battle Field
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