Day 36 - South Louisiana

Up about 8:00, downstairs for a really good continental breakfast and on the road by 9:25. We drove a few miles south on Highway 90 and then picked up Highway 23 near Terrytown. Once through Belle Chasse, highway 23 would follow the Mississippi River down toward the Gulf.

Chevron and Conoco both have large refineries on the river and we passed several heliports, which transport work crews out to oil rigs in the Gulf. There seems to be a sports fishing industry in the area and we did see some orange orchards, but other than that I don’t have any idea what people do down there. Oh, they are still rebuilding houses.

At one time sulfur was big business in Gulf area and Port Sulphur was named for the Freeport Sulphur Company. Yes, the town and company are spelled Sulphur. The Grande Ecaille mine located in a marsh ten miles west of town was the largest sulfur deposit in the world when production began in 1933. Sulfur from other mines in the area was processed in Port Sulphur, including a mine 50 miles offshore in 300 feet of water.

Near the end of the road is Venice, which is a collection of fishing boats and the county sheriff’s office in a C Class RV. Continuing to the very end we encountered the “You Have Reached the Southernmost Point In Louisiana” sign. You don’t go any further on wheels.

Not a big decision on what to do next, turn around and head back the way we came. And it was time to look for lunch. The first two we stopped at didn’t pass muster, but the third, Lil G’s Kajun Restaurant, looked hole-in-wall enough to try. Two bowls of gumbo and two Coronas hit the spot. The gumbo was shrimp, crab, okra, rice and I don’t know what else. It got a 10 from me and 9.5 from Barb.

Couple of things about this part of the country. First, there are a lot of houses on stilts. Looks a little odd, but when a hurricane raises the water level you’re good for at least 10 feet. Second, those who have passed on are buried above ground. With an elevation of 4 feet above sea level, you can’t dig too far without finding water. Third, there are a few banana trees mixed in with the oranges.

Ok, so now is the time I have to tell you about another lousy dinner. On the recommendation of the concierge we made reservations at Oceania on Conti Street. Typical French Quarter restaurant. Casual, noisy and big menu. First up was a chardonnay for Barb and a Newcastle Brown for me. For an appetizer we shared Louisiana Crabmeat Cakes, with Crawfish Cream Sauce. Wonderful. Main course for Barb was Red Beans and Rice, with Sausage, while I opted for the Shrimp Creole. Both were excellent. The shared dessert was New Orleans Bread Pudding with Rum Sauce. Outstanding. Barb finished her wine, while I ended the meal with a 15 year old Glenfiddich.

A stroll down Bourbon Street on a Friday evening offers a rich mixture of sights. From the local street entertainers trying to earn a living to your fellow travelers, there is something to see every minute. Tomorrow we will be off early for Vicksburg, Mississippi, and the Vicksburg National Military Park. 176 miles today.

Shrimp boats
Venice, Louisiana