Day 35 - Mobile, AL to New Orleans, LA

We split a Starbucks blueberry muffin for breakfast and were on Interstate 10 heading west by 8:12 am. Ok, we did have a mocha and coffee too. A few miles down the road we left the Interstate and followed US 90 to drive along the Gulf Coast.

Crossing the Pascagoula River near Pascagoula and Gautier, Mississippi, we began to see the lasting damage from Katrina. Along the highway driveways led to vacant lots. Some with the remains of a foundation and others with what looked like a once upon a time driveway. Many more homes with significant damage, windows and doors covered with plywood. What a mess. There was some construction going on, but it didn’t seem like much.

A little further along we encountered Biloxi, Mississippi, which has miles of beautiful white sand beach and a lot of casinos. And the devastation from Katrina continued. At this point the beach towns came one after another, as if joined at the hip. Gulfport, Long Beach, Pass Christian, Bay St. Louis, and Waveland took us back to Interstate 10 and the hunt for lunch.

This was the Gulf and that meant seafood. We wanted a place on the water, but were now heading away from the coast. Putting our trust in the GPS, we headed for Slidell, Louisiana, and Peck’s Seafood. Peck’s is the kind of place you walk into and immediately start considering how to leave. Ambiance none. Cafeteria tables and chairs. Order at the counter before finding your own table. But sometimes these little hole-in-wall places have really good food and when the big menu on the wall screamed out SEAFOOD GUMBO we ordered two bowls and two Coronas. Remember the best ever gumbo last night? This was better.

The rest of the drive into New Orleans was pretty easy. With our room not ready, we spent a couple of hours walking the French Quarter. Bars, restaurants and shops selling t-shirts. Narrow streets, old buildings and balconies with wrought iron railings. Tourists, delivery trucks and horse drawn carriages. Having been there once, I wouldn’t go back. Barb described it as dirty. It is, but perhaps part of the experience. There was a positive for me. I have a few CD’s of The Preservation Hall Jazz Band and there at 726 St. Peter Street was the Preservation Hall. Even better, two of the musicians, drums and sax, were playing out front.

Dinner tonight was at the Red Fish Grill. We shared an appetizer of grilled shrimp with a ginger glaze and crab stuffed spring rolls. We then shared a main dish of shrimp and jambalaya with a crab and shrimp cake. We followed that with a shared double chocolate bread pudding. Barb opted for coffee, while I choose a 15 year old Glenfiddich scotch neat. From start to finish, this was one of the best meals we have ever had. If you ever get a chance, eat at the Red Fish Grill. I don’t know how we can do any better tomorrow.

After dinner we walked Bourbon Street and it was just like in the movies. With the street blocked off there were people and musicians everywhere. Yes, there really are people on the balconies and Barb caught necklaces to prove it. What fun. I’m beginning to like New Orleans.

Another state today. Sometime I’ll have to sit down and figure out exactly where we have been. Tomorrow we head south out into the bayous of Louisiana. 154 miles today.

Gulf coast
Biloxi, Mississippi

Joseph Lastie Jr.
Preservation Hall Jazz Band
New Orleans, Louisiana