GPS said we were about 70 miles from Samoa when we stopped by the International Café for a pastry and coffee. Then it was off to our favorite pastime on port days—waiting for the ship to dock in Apia.
Rumor had it that Samoan dancers would be waiting on the starboard side to welcome us as we arrived. Unfortunately, before we reached the harbor, the captain came over the PA system to announce that our arrival had been delayed until 1:00 p.m. Since we suddenly had extra time, we ordered a light lunch before heading ashore.
We finally left the ship around 1:30 and made our way to the taxi stand. Our plan was to find a few other couples to share the cost of a three-hour island tour. About thirty minutes later, four couples climbed into a van and set off to explore.
Before going any further, I have to say that Samoa is one beautiful island. Banana and coconut trees are everywhere, and flowers that we usually only see in florist shops seem to grow naturally in every yard. The entire island feels like one giant tropical garden.
Our driver headed southeast out of Apia, following the coastline. One of the first things we noticed was the incredible number of churches. They are everywhere, and many are open-air buildings. According to our driver, Sundays are devoted entirely to church. People don't work, they don't shop, and they don't even cook. They simply go to church. During our drive we passed two theological colleges, and there were probably many more we didn't see.
The second thing that caught our attention was the raised, open-air, covered platforms next to almost every home. Some were small and simple, while others were large and beautifully decorated with brightly painted columns. Our driver explained that these are family gathering places where people socialize, cook, eat, and sometimes even sleep.
Our first stop was the Piula Freshwater Cave. After carefully making our way down a long, steep staircase, we were rewarded with a beautiful sight where crystal-clear freshwater meets the turquoise ocean and white sand. Does that last description sound more like something Barb would write than me?
I should probably say a little about the driving in Samoa. Once outside the city, the roads become narrow and usually have no shoulders. They also drive on the left side of the road. I suppose that's more "different" than "wrong." Samoa only switched from driving on the right to the left a few years ago, so many vehicles—including our van—still have the steering wheel on the left. That makes it difficult for drivers to see when passing. Apparently, that didn't concern our driver in the least. What concerned me more was that between the narrow roads, blind passes, and what felt like a 35-horsepower engine, our little van seemed determined to test our faith. Fortunately, we survived.
Next we crossed the mountains to the south side of the island, an area that had been devastated by the 2009 tsunami. Turning east, we once again followed the coastline until our driver pulled over beside a roadside stand where a woman was selling fresh coconuts. He bought one for each couple. With impressive skill—and what appeared to be all ten fingers still intact—she chopped the tops off with a large machete so we could enjoy the fresh coconut water.
Our next stop was the Sinalei Reef Resort and Spa. It was exactly the kind of place you see featured in travel magazines, complete with swaying palms, crystal-clear water, and postcard-perfect scenery. We were both ready to unpack and stay for a couple of weeks.
Heading back over the mountains to the north side of the island, we encountered something that reminded us of home: road construction. It was the first we'd seen in more than two weeks. Just before returning to Apia, our driver took us through the grounds of Robert Louis Stevenson's former home. I had no idea the famous author had lived in Samoa.
Before taking us back to the ship, our driver gave us a quick tour of downtown Apia, pointing out several government buildings along the way. By the time we returned, our three-hour tour had turned into four.
It was time well spent. Samoa turned out to be one of the most beautiful islands we've visited, and our impromptu taxi tour gave us a wonderful glimpse into both its scenery and its culture.
Here's something interesting. We passed a new school built by the Chinese. Later a big new hospital built by the Chinese. Then in town a really big new parliament building built by the Chinese. Kinda makes you wonder.
Aboard the Crown Princess
013° 49' South
171° 45' West
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