Day 21 - Boston, MA to Gettysburg, PA

Alarm went off at 4:45. It was dark outside. Very dark. What were we doing up at this time of the morning? Oh, right. Going to Gettysburg. Get dressed, load the car and check out. Complimentary breakfast is non-existent, so we are on the road at 5:28 am.

As planned there was little traffic leaving Boston and except for some fog and light rain it was a comfortable drive. Interstates 93 and 95 took us south and across the border into Rhode Island near Pawtucket. Trying to grasp just how small Rhode Island is can be a daunting task. Like trying to grasp the size of an atom. Think of it this way. Rhode Island has an area of 1,212 square miles. Deschutes County, Oregon has an area of 3,055 square miles. Nuf said.

On we drove till a Cracker Barrel sign lured us off the interstate near Warwick. A light breakfast (light by Cracker Barrel standards) and we were back on the road with just a little bit more rain. After a short drive (remember we are in Rhode Island) Connecticut was added to the list of states visited. Feeling the need for coffee we asked for and received directions from our faithful GPS to a Starbucks in Groton. We looked. It wasn’t there. But wait, Groton has two Starbucks. No it doesn’t. However, in looking for the non-existent second one we did get a view of the Electric Boat Company, which is a major player in the building of submarines for the US Navy.

When we finally did find a Starbucks it required driving through a flooded underpass to get there. Did I mention it was raining harder? And as the rain continued to fall, we pressed on toward the dreaded passage through New York City. I don’t mind driving, but when I get passed by a semi doing 15 mph over the speed limit and throwing up a rooster tail of water that covers my windshield, I get just a little bit nervous.

Anyway, the drive through New York City wasn’t as bad as I thought it would be. I still don’t like driving in between two semi trucks in a lane that seems much too small and doing it a tunnel, but what the heck we made it to New Jersey.

Ah yes, New Jersey. The first 30 or so miles into New Jersey are not eye candy. And they charge you to see it. Yup, a toll road. But after awhile the landscape settled down and New Jersey lived up to its Garden State motto. By now it’s raining just a little harder.

Continuing in a westerly direction, we crossed into Pennsylvania and started looking for lunch. I don’t remember the name of the town, but we both had a bowl of really great split pea soup. It was after lunch that the weather really went south. Rain like I have seen only a few times before. The sound of the drops hitting the windshield was amazing. I am now spending a lot of time in the slow lane while one after another semi passes, tossing up a blinding sheet of water. Tom and Sharon, remember coming back over Santiam Pass in the white out a few years ago? Well, this was almost as bad.

There were, of course, a few missed turns during the day. Mostly due to construction, but one or two that I just blew by. Hopefully in the days to come Barb will become more understanding of these little side trips.

We are now comfortably situated in the Ivy Room at the Gaslight Inn Bed and Breakfast in Gettysburg. If you are ever here, take this room. Dinner was at a nearby pub, cup of chili for Barb and French Onion soup for Bob. And a couple of beers. Dave, thanks for the email on liquid refreshments!

Tomorrow we will spend the day visiting the Gettysburg battlefield. 486 miles today.

Day 20 - Boston, MA

Up at 8:05 am and looking forward to a day without driving. A quick complimentary breakfast and then off to downtown Boston.

Our thing for today was the Freedom Trail. That is walking the Freedom Trail. And that started with a 15 minute walk from our motel to the subway station. That was about 9:00 and it was already humid. I knew right then it was going to be a long day.

Four stops after boarding we were at Boston Common. Dating from 1634, it is one of the oldest city parks in the country and with 50 acres it has space for many activities, including a large pond for swimming. The Freedom Trail starts at The Common (not Commons) and zig zags around the city ending across the Charles River at Bunker Hill. It’s quite a walk. There isn’t space here to tell about all the places we saw today, but I’ll mention a few.

The Granary Burying Ground is one of Boston’s oldest cemeteries and is the final resting place for Samuel Adams, John Hancock and Paul Revere. Further along was the Old South Meeting House, which was the organizing point for the Boston Tea Party. The Declaration of Independence was first read to the public by Col. Thomas Crafts from the east balcony of the Old State House.

By this time I was thinking seriously about a beer, but pressed on to see Paul Revere’s house and the Old North Church. Officially known as Christ Church in the City of Boston, it is the “One if by land and two if by sea” site that set Paul Revere off on his famous ride to warn the countryside.

After crossing the Charles River the beer was weighing heavily on our collective mind. How fortunate to find Max & Dylan’s, which offered cold beer and poor service. More walking brought us to the Boston Navy Yard. Founded in 1801, it was one of the oldest shipbuilding facilities for the US Navy. It is now home to the USS Constitution. Launched in 1797, she has never been retired from service and is still an active duty US Navy ship. Also there is the WWII era museum ship the USS Cassin Young (DD-792.)

Ok, so now we are as far away as we can get from our starting point at The Common. What to do? We reverse and follow the Freedom Trail backwards. On the way we stop at a Starbucks for a bottle of their expensive water. Barb wants to go to Cheers, so that becomes our destination. It’s past our original starting point, but we keep walking and finally get there. We enter and when we start to sit down we are told sitting at tables is only for those ordering dinner. Want a drink, go upstairs. Upstairs we sit down and after a few minutes are told tables are only for those ordering dinner. We leave. I would never, never, never go back to this place.

What to do now. Oh, it’s about time for dinner. We remembering passing Ye Old Union Oyster House about halfway through the Freedom Trail. Looked good. Can we walk that far? Let’s try. We tried and actually made it. Established in 1826, it is America’s oldest restaurant. We were seated upstairs next to booth #18, which has a sign hanging over it identifying it as The Kennedy Booth. #18 is a nice booth located next to the bar. Barb had mushroom ravioli and I settled for the shrimp and scallops. Turned out to be one of the best meals we have ever had.

We started walking back toward The Common when an empty cab cruised slowly by. Fifteen minutes later we were back in our room.

All in all it was a great day. Except for the humidity, Barb’s blisters and I have to tell you my dogs are barking. So much walking wasn’t a whole lot of fun, but there was so much history to see. Next time I would spend at least 3 days exploring Boston.

Tomorrow we want to leave early, like about 5:30 and head to Gettysburg. Zero miles driving, lots walking.

Day 19 - Manchester, NH to Boston, MA

A little earlier start this morning. Continental breakfast, car loaded and off to Starbucks at 8:58. I have to say I’m getting tired of Raisin Bran in the little box. A couple more days of this and I’ll be ready for a Cracker Barrel.

Since we were heading to Boston, I decided to stop at a few cemeteries on the way. The first was Fairview Cemetery in Billerica, Massachusetts. Billerica is not pronounced anything like it is spelled, at least according to the lady in the gas station. Fairview was really small. All the gravestones were of the old style and there probably wasn’t more than 70. So, it was pretty easy to find my 5th Great Grandfather John Dutton (1712 – 1760) under a low hanging tree.

Next was Old Corner Burying Ground in Westford, Massachusetts. Quite a large cemetery, but with a well defined area of the old-time headstones. Once in the vicinity, I began following a trail of headstones that started in the mid 1800’s and went back into the early 1700’s. In time, I finally found my 6th Great Grandparents Thomas Dutton (1681 – 1759) and Hannah Burge Dutton (1688 – 1775), along with a Dutton I have yet to identify.

Did I mention it was trying to rain? Not a lot. Mostly a mist, but enough to make the humidity noticeable.

Nearby towns included Lexington and Concord. Once upon a time, schoolchildren were taught that on April 19, 1775, at Lexington Common and the Old North Bridge the first shots were fired in the American Revolutionary War. A war fought to free the citizens of North America from the overbearing rule of government. Anyway, we spent some time at the visitor’s center and then promptly got lost for about an hour. Lost can be good if you can manage to do it in beautiful country like we did today.

While wandering around we made an attempt to find Walden Pond and to our surprise were successful. Walden Pond is best known for Henry David Thoreau’s two year experiment on simple living. It was there that a night in jail over a delinquent poll tax led to his writing Civil Disobedience.

After finding our way back to town, we spent the next 45 minutes or so looking for a lunch stop. Finally we missed a GPS turn and accidentally turned into a parking lot we didn’t want. What a stroke of luck. We had stumbled onto Bella Famiglia. Barb had minestrone and a garden salad. I took a chance and went with the Haddock Italian Style and ravioli. I know you must be thinking I was really going out on a limb with that one.

Back in the car for a 22 mile drive to our motel in Boston. Our motel for the next two nights is a little different than most. Built in 1870, it was originally part of the Roxbury Gas Light Company. Yup, it was a six story plus basement, brick gas tank. Actually the gas was stored in a collapsible steel tank, to maintain pressure in the gas mains, inside the brick structure. Through the years it was used for a motion picture exhibition in the 1920’s and manufacturing and storage in the 1930’s. It then served as a warehouse until 1999, when it was transformed it into an all suites hotel. Once inside you would never know you were in a 140 year old gas tank.

After the lunch we had dinner was out of the question. Tomorrow will be all walking tour of Boston, which will create great hunger and the need for a wonderful seafood dinner. Count is now 4,741 miles and 17 states. Gotta start looking for an oil change and maybe a haircut. 145 miles today.

Day 18 - New Hampshire and Massachusetts Area

Before getting started today a note to Caroline. Yes, the “Italian Style” I referred to was a water glass. First time I had seen it in a restaurant. And this would probably be a good time to say hello to everyone on Murrelet Drive…so, Hello. And hello to the Goldens somewhere in Illinois.

Ok, now for day eighteen. Slipped in just before the 9:00 am closing time for the continental breakfast, then headed for Derry, New Hampshire. Along the way we passed the Robert Frost Farm, which of course is closed on Mondays. Even though we could only drive by, I can state with great certainty that good fences still make good neighbors. A quick trip to the library and Community Hall left us with no historical society. Seems the president just retired and they are in a state of flux. In other words, we can’t help you.

So what to do on a semi-rainy day in New England? We decided to visit Salem, Massachusetts, the town that suffered a severe outbreak of witch hysteria in 1692. The fear that swept through Puritan Massachusetts resulted in the execution of 20 men and women and the death of as many as 17 while in prison. 265 years later, the state formally apologized for the events of 1692.

The next several hours were spent wandering around the town. Pretty neat place and well worth the 90 minute drive. Lots of old buildings. Those dating from the 1700’s are not unusual. And narrow streets laid out in a somewhat haphazard pattern, that keep you looking at a map. A map that makes no sense until a park ranger type guy tells you to turn it upside down. If you are walking around for long, it’s best to see past a lot of the tourist stuff having to do with the witch episode. We both agreed we could have spent a lot more time exploring the town.

Lunch was a little hole in the wall spot that had the best clam chowder so far. A short drive around the harbor finished our visit and I was soon heading back to Manchester and getting lost.

I will tell you three things about drivers in Massachusetts and New Hampshire. First, you must drive at least 10 mph above the speed limit and 15 is even better. Second, you must conserve gas by drafting the car in front of you. For those not familiar with drafting, it means you get so close to the car in front of you that it sort of sucks you along. NASCAR drivers do this. Third, you must drive in the fast lane until the last moment and then veer suddenly to the right to exit. All of these are best done with a cell phone in one hand.

While driving back from Salem I thought about how quickly one can drive from one state to another in New England. So back at the motel I did a little research. Oregon has an area of 98,466 square miles. If you add up the 6 states of Maine, Vermont, New Hampshire, Massachusetts, Connecticut and Rhode Island you have a total area of 71,767 square miles. Ok, I get it now.

Dinner tonight was soup and salad at Olive Garden. Tomorrow it’s off to Concord and Lexington for a visit where the American Revolutionary War began and then two nights in Boston. 152 miles today.

Sarah Good
Hanged for Witchcraft

Day 17 - Freeport, ME to Manchester, NH

A little bit of a late start today. On the road at 8:58, after a stop for oatmeal and bagel. We spotted a Starbucks in Freeport the night before and had cups in hand by the time the car was pointed south on interstate 95. A short drive and we crossed the Piscataqua River into New Hampshire.

Two interstates later we arrived at our motel and were able to check in at just before noon. Tinker’s Seafood was recommended for lunch by the desk clerk and he certainly knows of what he speaks. We shared one each clam and lobster chowder. Both were excellent and we may just show up for dinner.

Next on the agenda was one of the reasons for visiting this part of New Hampshire, so off we went to Forrest Hills Cemetery in East Derry to find the graves of my earliest ancestors in America. Searching such a large cemetery is made a little easier because the really old gravestones are more thin slabs than the monuments you see today. With rain threatening, we set off in opposite directions in what had to be the oldest part of the cemetery. An hour passed before we were both calling out. I had found a group of gravestones that included my 6th Great Grandfather Samuel Houston (1692 – 1757) and my 7th Great Grandparents David Cargill (1661 – 1734) and Jennet Smith (1664 – 1745), along with several others. Barb had found the gravestone of Benjamin Houston. Took photos of all and we headed back to the car to warm up. Did I mention it was cold?

Next door in the town of Derry residents can look back with pride to the year 1719, when the first potato was planted in American soil. Take that Idaho.

What to do with the rest of the day. I thought, well why don’t we head out to the coast. Maybe find a seafood place on the Atlantic. Like Gloucester, New Hampshire, which has been a fishing port since the beginning of time. Thirty miles down the road I figured out that the GPS was set on maximize freeways, which meant we were going south to Boston and then north to Gloucester. This was going to be a very long trip. We turned around and headed back to the motel. There will be time for the coast when we go to Boston. The little excursion did add Massachusetts to our list of states, so we should be up to 17.

So instead of having a seafood at the coast we elected to return to Tinker’s and what a great choice that turned out to be. Barb had shrimp, while I went with the scallops. Both broiled and as good as we have ever had. Going to be tough to stay away tomorrow night.

And speaking of tomorrow, we will probably start with local historical societies. After that who knows. 234 miles today.

Day 16 - Northfield, VT to Freeport, ME

Early wakeup again today for breakfast at 7:00 and another good one it was. Fruit plate and hot granola like yesterday with a frittata.

After packing the car we headed out at 7:42. We didn’t find coffee until Lebanon, New Hampshire at Jake’s Coffee Shop and Car Wash. Yup, that’s right, coffee shop and car wash in the same building and a nice coffee shop at that.

Continuing south on Interstate 89 we came across what I thought was another rather odd combination. This time it was a rest stop and New Hampshire State liquor store. That’s right, a liquor store at the interstate rest stop. I’m sure no one opens a bottle of Old Redeye until they get home.

Further south on 89, I decided to take a shortcut on some back roads and once again Barb voiced concern. However, by making good use of highways 393, 202, 4 and 16 we eventually found our way to Portsmouth, New Hampshire, and once again Barb gave a sigh of relief as we crossed into Maine. That sigh lasted until I decided to try highway 1 up the coast instead of the toll road.

Ok, highway 1 was a little crowded. But, in my defense I will say that it did take us to Billy’s Chowder House in Wells, Maine, for a bowl each of Billy’s best. At that point I made a short jog to the west, paid a buck and took the toll road to Freeport.

After checking in, we headed downtown to LL Bean, which for your shopping pleasure stays open 24/7 every day of the year. Yes, that does include Christmas. And LL Bean in Freeport is huge. Several buildings with multiple floors. Rather than list all the stuff they have, I will just say they have everything you need. Don, you are going to love it.

Where to go for dinner? After looking in Freeport, we decided to check out a place in Brunswick a few miles north. Turns out it’s a seafood restaurant hiding in an old McDonald’s and smelling of grease. We left.

On the way out of Brunswick we passed Bowdoin College, which was chartered in 1794, by Massachusetts Governor Samuel Adams. Among the many notable Bowdoin alumnus, was one Joshua Lawrence Chamberlain. Although less well known than others, he is credited with turning the battle of Gettysburg in favor of Union when his 20th Maine defeated Confederate forces at Little Round Top. For gallantry, he was awarded the Medal Of Honor and chosen to accept Lee’s surrender at Appomattox. Later he would serve as the governor of Maine and president of the college. Not wanting to slight other well known graduates, I will mention President Franklin Pierce, authors Nathaniel Hawthorne and Henry Wadsworth Longfellow, sexologist Alfred Kinsey and Arctic explorer Robert Perry. To those I’ve missed, get over it.

Dinner turned out to be back in Freeport at the Jameson Tavern, built in 1779. Yup, 231 years old and still standing and even some of the windows are original. Records show commissioners met there to sign papers giving Maine independence from Massachusetts. Dinner was lobster. Not lobster ravioli. Not Lobster fettuccini. Just plain lobster. And it was good.

If I’m counting correctly, we are up to 4,355 miles and 16 states. Tomorrow we are off to Manchester, New Hampshire. 286 miles today.

The Boot

Day 15 - Hardwick, VT

Alarm set last night for 5:45, so up early and downstairs for a wonderful 7:00 pm B and B breakfast. Fruit plate (melon, banana, grapes, yogurt all dusted with powdered sugar), homemade hot granola and crapes. And, of course, juice and coffee. No need for lunch today.

Hit the road at 8:05 headed for Hardwick, which is a small town about 22 miles north and a little east of Northfield. During the Revolutionary War George Washington ordered a road built into the interior of Vermont. In time, Hardwick would be born. Chartered in 1781, it would claim sawmills, gristmills, tanneries and a woolen mill among its many industries. However, by far the most important were the granite quarries, which produced stone for major projects throughout the country.

Hardwick also happens to be the town my 5th Great Grandfather Joseph Orr Houston (born 1782) came to from his birthplace in Deerfield, Maine. From then until my Great Grandfather Clarence W. Houston (born 1858) left for Iowa, Houstons multiplied like rabbits.

We started our visit with a very knowledgeable lady at the Hardwick Historical Society, who provided information on area cemeteries well as history of the town. Then it was off to search out final resting places. First stop a cemetery in town looking for my 4th Great Grandfather Gary B. Houston (born 1806) and one whose final resting spot had eluded me for years. Gary was a circuit riding preacher of the Methodist persuasion and whose pulpit bible I have. Photo of the headstone and off to our next stop.

Houston Hill Road is several miles outside of town. Starting out paved and then turning to dirt, this road eventually led us to Houston Hill Cemetery and a treasure trove of Houstons. 25 to be exact. Lots of photos. Later I happened upon a man sitting on his front porch along Houston Hill Road. Barb suggested I keep driving. But what the heck. I backed up and he walked out to the car. Turns out his house, a big white one, was a Houston farm house.

Off to the town of South Walden and in spite of the help of a very nice lady we were unable to locate the graves of Joseph and his wife. Bummer.

On the way back we drove back and forth past the maple syrup store until we realized it was the place with the maple syrup sign.

At last it was time to return to the B and B, but first dinner. Everyone we asked came up with the same place. Sarducci’s. Oh no, Italian once again. Ok, I’m going to go out on a limb and say that absolutely we will have lobster in Maine tomorrow night. 124 miles today.

Typical Vermont

Houston Hill Cemetery

Day 14 - Niagara Falls, NY to Northfield, VT

Ok, early start this morning. Out the door and on our way to Starbucks at 6:17, only to find out it didn’t open for another 8 minutes. Feeling so good about starting out in the dark that we took off hoping to find another one down the road.

Headed back towards Buffalo to catch Interstate 90, paid another dollar to cross Beaver Island and took a ticket at the toll booth for the interstate. Still no Starbucks. This toll road was actually a very good road compared to prior ones and once we are out of town the traffic was light. All Starbucks on the GPS were behind us, probably in Canada.

Remember those toll road plazas I mentioned a few days ago? Well each does have a Starbucks, so with Mocha and Americano in hand we moved on east.

Diving through New York we passed Rochester home of the “Kodak Moment”, Syracuse ranked 4th in the nation as a place to raise a family, Utica which went from “The City that God Forgot” due to the mass exodus of businesses to “Second Chance City” due to the mass influx of immigrants and Albany noted for sports teams such as the Albany Firebirds, the River Rats, the Tri-City ValleyCats and the Albany Legends.

Lunch today was in Saratoga Springs, New York. If you are old enough, you may remember the movie Saratoga Trunk staring Gary Cooper and Ingrid Bergman. As I remember trunk referred to a railroad line, not a container for clothing.

Continuing north we finally entered Vermont near Rutland. After that I don’t have a clue how we got to Northfield, Vermont. I do know we traveled mostly back-country two lane roads, passed through numerous small towns, saw lots of church steeples, passed many Bed and Breakfasts and enjoyed the changing colors of Fall.

The small town of Northfield is home to Norwich University. Founded in 1819, it is the first private military college in the United States. Northfield is also home to the Northfield Inn, the Bed and Breakfast where we are staying for the next two nights.

After checking in and signing up for a 7:00 am breakfast, we asked the owner about a place for dinner. Unbelievable. The recommendation was Italian. How could this be I asked myself, as well as Barb. Oh well, off we went. It took us a half hour to find the restaurant which was about a quarter mile away. I was so lost that I actually made a u-turn in the restaurant’s parking lot and set off in another direction still seeking Italian.

Split a Caesar Salad and small pepperoni pizza along with two beers. Back at the B & B Barb had Chardonnay and I Cabernet in the Italian style. Only Earl knows what that means. 457 miles today.

Northfield Inn
Northfield, Vermont

Day 13 - Around Niagara Falls, NY

Today started out at 9:03 after a continental breakfast. First two items on the agenda were an ATM and a Starbucks. We discovered early on that Wells Fargo Banks are as scarce in this part of the country as grapes are plentiful. Settled on a Bank of America and a $3.00 charge. Bummer.

Now for the Starbucks. Barb said there were a bunch (which meant about 6) shown on the GPS and punched one in. I followed the blue line and verbal directions to the letter. Right up to the toll booth for the bridge over the river to Canada. And no way to go back. And passports back at the motel. Fortunately it was still early, so I pulled into a closed toll booth to plot my next move. A quick 360 degree look confirmed no escape. With little traffic around, I backed up about fifty feet, made a u-turn, drove against the incoming traffic for several hundred feet and made a quick right turn out of trouble. Can you imagine what Homeland Security would have thought had they seen that move? I’d be calling you for bail.

With nothing left on the agenda except doing some laundry in the afternoon, we headed north on highway 18F for Fort Niagara State Park. The drive along the river to the fort, which sits at the junction of the Niagara River and Lake Ontario, was a nice way to spend several hours. Great little country road and a lot of beautiful old homes.

The fort covers about 250 acres and was first used by the French in 1678. Through the years it has filled a number or roles, including troop training during the Spanish-American War and WWI, prisoner of war camp for Germans captured in North Africa during WWII, emergency housing for troops returning from WWII and in later years it was the headquarters for Nike missiles.

Then a short drive to the town of Wilson and back along the same route. The grapes seem to have disappeared for the time being, but corn has made a big time comeback.

Returning to Niagara Falls we decided on a light lunch. Headed back to Little Italy, the site of last night’s dinner, and split a sandwich.

Back in the motel now. Barb is doing a little laundry and I’m writing this up. Tonight will be yet another Italian night with the leftover spaghetti. Mamma Mia.

Tomorrow we hope for a 7:00 am or earlier start for the 435 mile drive to Northfield, Vermont. Will we have New England Fall colors? Stay tuned. 77 miles today.

Canadian Falls
Niagara Falls, New York

Day 12 - Cuyahoga Falls, OH to Niagara Falls, NY

After several days of late starts we finally got back on track with a 7:28 am departure. We made a quick stop for gas ($2.49 per gallon) and Starbucks for the usual.

Trying to get out of Akron was not that easy. Between morning traffic and construction it was really slow. If you visit Ohio be aware drivers there drive fast and follow really, really close. Anyway, a combination of Interstate 77, highway 8 and Interstate 271 finally got us headed east on Interstate 90. For the first 30 minutes Barb constantly told me that I was on the wrong road and should turn around immediately.

Shortly after passing by Ashtabula we crossed over into Pennsylvania for about 40 miles and then entered New York. And New York meant toll roads. And grapes. Lots of grapes. In fact, a little research on the internet shows New York to be third in the nation behind California and Washington in the production of grapes. I was surprised. So the grapes and toll road continued until just outside Buffalo, New York. The grapes stopped and I paid $3.15.

Our plan was to stop in Buffalo for a light lunch and then continue on to Niagara Falls. However, while passing through Buffalo on Interstate 190 I spied the mast of a navy ship. A quick turn off the freeway and a little maneuvering in town led us to the Buffalo and Erie Naval & Military Park. Having grown up in a navy family and also having done a little time on my own at sea, I just can’t resist ships. And this was like the pot of gold at the end of the rainbow. A destroyer, cruiser and submarine. For $6 each (the senior rate) we got to tour each ship. And the tours included everything from the bridge to the engine room. Barb didn’t like the ladders, but managed with something less than a smile.

First up was the destroyer USS The Sullivans, DD-537. This ship was named for the five Sullivan brothers, killed when the USS Juneau was sunk in WWII. Interesting bit of information is that when the ship sailed into WWII there were 23 crewmembers named Sullivan. Unbelievable how much stuff could be stuffed into a small ship.

Next up was the cruiser USS Little Rock, which started life as light cruiser CL-92. Eight years after being decommissioned in 1949, she was converted to a guided missile cruiser and sailed as CLG-4. She kept her 6” guns forward, but Talos missiles replaced the aft mounts. Ever seen a Talos missile up close? Huge is the only way to describe them. I had no idea how big these things were. They were 38 feet long, 2 feet 4 inches in diameter and weighed 7,800 pounds. All that to shoot down one airplane. And the Little Rock could only carry 50 of these giants.

Last was the submarine USS Croaker SS-246. She served during WWII and claimed eleven Japanese ships, including a cruiser. If you were at all claustrophobic, a WWII submarine was not the place for you. Start with small and then shrink it. I really don’t know how anyone could have gone to sea, actually under the sea, on the Croaker.

To Barb’s relief there were no more ships, so we could go split a cheeseburger at The Hatch and get back on the road to Niagara Falls. One more toll and the driving was done.

After checking into our motel we took a 3+ mile walk over to Goat Island and the falls. While both falls are very impressive, I think the Canadian side has far more visual impact. If you’re in the neighborhood, don’t pass up a chance to see them. And do it from Goat Island.

Anyone want to take a guess on what was for dinner? Anything but Italian, right? Wrong. Italian again. And we brought half of each dinner back to the motel. Now safely stashed in the refrigerator and waiting to be warmed up in the microwave for dinner tomorrow night.

So where are we now? 3,411 miles and 13 states. Still got a ways to go. 258 miles today.

USS Little Rock CL-92

Day 11 - Cuyahoga Falls, OH

We are getting lazy. Didn’t get out of the hotel until 9:15 am. Stopped at the Honda dealer next door, but they couldn’t get the car in till tomorrow at 9:00 am. So the oil change will have to wait.

Next up was a drive to an IHOP for breakfast. Along the way we saw gas for $2.49, so will be stopping there tomorrow morning on the way out of town. Great breakfast of eggs, bacon, hashbrowns and two pancakes with blueberries. How could we possibly need lunch? We didn’t.

Then over to Best Buy to replace the two lens caps I lost. Will I use the attachment cord to keep from doing this again? I doubt it.

Finally we made our way over to my cousin Nan’s house. Spent a lot of time looking over more old family stuff and then took a ride around the area. First stop was the cemetery where my aunt Cynthia is buried. She passed away recently just short of her 90th birthday. Then a drive through the Cuyahoga Valley National Park and a walk in a small park on the Cuyahoga River. The falls, while not of any great height, are very scenic from a newly built foot bridge.

Overall a very nice area. Lots of small towns, called townships in this part of the country. But hot and humid in the summer, so scratch another possible retirement place to live. Wait…I am retired and already have a place to live. Well, doesn’t hurt to look.

Later we met up with Nan’s sister Missy and husband Tom for dinner. I hadn’t seen Missy for over 40 years, so there was a lot to catch up on with her too. And would you believe another Italian dinner? How can this happen? I tell you I will be speaking Italian before long. How does one order lobster in Italian?

Tomorrow will be a fairly short driving day to Niagara Falls. Barb is really looking forward to the “Over Niagara Falls in a barrel” ride, which I have told her is very popular and very safe. 92 miles today.

Day 10 - Battle Creek, MI to Cuyahoga Falls, OH

At last we had a short driving day. So we slept in late, had a quick bowl of cereal and were on the road at 9:04. First stop was Starbucks for a Mocha and Americano. Surprised? Next up was a car wash to get 10 states worth of bugs removed from the grill and hood. That done we were off on Interstates 94 and 69 east and south to Indiana. Once across the border we found are way to Interstate 80/90 and again headed east. Ok I missed the turn onto 80/90, but took only minutes to recover.

Interstate 80/90 is not a freeway. There is nothing free about it. It’s a toll road to the tune of $12.30 today and more tomorrow. And most of the time the road surface is not as good as the free roads. So where does the money go? My guess is the big fancy Plazas found along the way. And what do I mean by big and fancy? First of all they are huge. And they have a Starbucks. And a Burger King. And a bakery. And four or so other eating establishments. Kinda like food court at the mall. And there may be as much as 30 or 40 miles between them.

Along our way we passed Toledo, Ohio. Some might think the Toledo Scale was manufactured in Toledo, thereby giving the town a certain measure of notoriety in the weights and measures community. But alas, Toledo Scale was based in Columbus, Ohio.

Further on we came across Sandusky, Ohio, which received a plug from Charles Dickens in his book American Notes. He described the town as “sluggish and uninteresting enough…” How could Dickens have known that one day Sandusky’s Cedar Point Amusement Park would have the largest collection of roller coasters in the world?

Arriving in the Akron area we headed to my cousin’s home in Cuyahoga Falls, where we caught up on the last 20 years worth of news. We also shared old family photographs and what Barb and I had found in Iowa. Then off to dinner. Barb had to good sense to order something other than Italian. I didn’t.

Tomorrow should be another slow day. I hope to find a Best Buy and replace the two, yes two, lens caps I’ve lost. And with a Honda dealer next to the motel, I might just get an oil change. 299 miles today.

Iowa to Illinois in 4 days

I haven’t had access to the internet, so the last four days are getting posted all at once.

Day Six - Humboldt, IA to Algonquin, IL It was just getting light when we set out at 7:05 am headed for Fort Dodge, Iowa. A quick breakfast, ATM stop, Starbucks for the usual and we were on Highway 20 headed East across Iowa.

Not much to comment on for the early part of the day. Same corn, soybeans, silos and small towns. A little overcast compared to the sunny days we had been having. Pulled of the highway and drove a few miles to the town of Quasqueton to see a Frank Lloyd Wright house. Did my usual exploring. Finally stopped at a small store to ask for directions. Turns out the house in not visible from the road and open only on Thursday. So, back to the highway and heading East.

We found a nice park in Dubuque for a break and split a sandwich for lunch. Next a quick stop for gas and a short drive to the Mississippi River and Illinois.

A few miles into Illinois we came upon the town of Galena, which is named for the mineral galena. You probably know galena is the natural form of lead sulfide, the most important lead ore mineral. By 1845 the area around Galena was producing 80% of the lead in America. That alone would be enough to put Galena on the map. But add in a pretty much unsuccessful in business resident by the name of Ulysses S. Grant leading the Union Army to victory in the Civil War and this little town had another claim to fame. On returning to Galena after the war the citizens of the town gave him a house. Later the citizens of the country gave him a bigger house in Washington DC.

And what to say about Illinois. Roads not so good. Lots of corn. Finally some real hills to go up and down. Missed a turn and got lost. The worst road of the trip so far and it was a toll road.

Anyway, we arrived in Algonquin at the home of old friends from Redmond, who moved east earlier this year. Wine and an excellent chicken dinner ended the day. 390 miles today.

Ulysses S. Grant Home
Galena, Illinois

Day Seven – Lake Geneva, WI

Ah yes, zero miles. I don’t have to do any driving today. What a luxury.

Up at 7:30 am to work on the blog from yesterday. We all had a light breakfast a little later and then off to explore (doesn’t mean lost this time cause someone else was driving) up north in Wisconsin. Actually we were headed for Lake Geneva, but along the way stopped for a very interesting tour through Superior Felt & Filtration, which our friend’s son is a part-owner in. We followed tightly packed bundles of fibers through the process of becoming felt and then saw how the felt was converted to many useful everyday products. Everything from medical filters to the little things that keep cabinet doors from banging shut.

Our lunch stop had a wonderful view of Lake Geneva and the clam chowder was pretty good too. A walk through the shopping district produced no sales, so it was back home.

After the customary adult beverages we took off for Hoffman, Illinois and the Café Clemenza. Does everyone remember Clemenza from the Godfather movies? He was the one who taught Michael how to use a gun to kill Sollozzo and Police Captain McCluskey. Anyway a couple of bottles of Chianti and a wonderful clam linguini ended a great day.

Day Eight - Chicago, IL

Another day without driving! And what a day it was. Our host turned out to be an excellent tour guide and gave us a large dose of Chicago.

Before beginning he tells us that Chicago is not called the Windy City because it’s windy, but rather because politicians in the past talked too much. Sounds good, but just the past???

The tour started with the scene of the St. Valentine’s Day Massacre (Al Capone’s boys doing a number on their rivals) and the Biograph Theater (where John Dillinger was killed). The tour then lightened up with the Moody Bible Institute and Wrigley Field (home of the Chicago Cubs). Next up was a walk on a Lake Michigan beach, where our host was a lifeguard many, many decades ago.

Navy Pier is Chicago’s number one attraction and has been used as a pier, campus of the University of Illinois and now a public gathering place. Besides the usual tourist attractions (bars, restaurants and the like) it houses the Smith Museum of Stained Glass and a variety of ships for tours on Lake Michigan. We choose the tall ship Windy. And yes, they actually used the sails.

Did I mention our host is Italian? In a phone conversation before we left home Barb mentioned she would like to have some real Italian food, which took us to Portillo's for their famous Italian Beef Sandwich. Fabulous.

After lunch we were off to the John Hancock Center and a 40 second ride to the observation deck, 1100 feet above the streets of Chicago. What views! After taking in the sights of a slow 360 degree walk around Chicago we settled down to a round of adult beverages.

Next up was an exciting ride around rush hour Chicago with our host, who in an earlier life was a cab driver in the town. He maneuvered with precision and used the horn to effectively communicate with offending drivers. A+ after all these years. Sitting in the back seat, Barb said it was interesting. Or something like that.

Did I mention our host is Italian? After the cab ride we were off to Tufano’s for yet another Italian meal. And a very good meal it was. Meatballs, eggplant, stuffed shells and chicken picante all served family style.

Quite a day.

Day Nine - Algonquin, IL to Battle Creek, MI

Today was not supposed to be anything special, just a little drive after having a few days relaxing with friends. So much for supposed to be.

On our way fairly early (which means we didn’t note the time) and off to Starbucks for drinks and a quick look at a map. With Mocha and Americano in the cup holders we headed to Einstein Bagels for a quick breakfast. Getting out of the car Barb started looking for her purse. Within seconds she freaked out. No purse. Back into the car and off to Starbucks. She races in, picks her purse up off the floor by the table and heads back to the car still freaked out, but with a little smile.

Ok, things are good. Then the sky darkens. And then the Rain. Lots of rain. The kind that sounds like it just might crack the windshield. The sky darkens even more, which makes it very easy to see the lighting. Through all of this we head generally south toward Wheaton, Illinois. A quick call to a cousin in Ohio and I have an address for the home my dad grew up in. Found it in a block of old homes and took a few photos.

Indecision led us to drive around and around Wheaton and Joliet adding many miles to today’s total. Eventually we found interstates 80 and 94 and finally discovered ourselves in Battle Creek, Michigan. Of course you have heard of Battle Creek. It’s known as “Cereal City”, being the world headquarters for Kellogg Company and home of Post Cereals.

After checking into a motel we found a Red Lobster and split a very good dinner.

Interesting day, but not one I want to repeat in the near future. We are now up to 2,762 miles and 10 states. We still have a ways to go, so stick with us. 295 miles today.

Day 5 - Livermore, Renwick and Humboldt, IA

We had a really late start today. But we are spending another night in Humboldt, so what the heck.

Out of the parking lot at 9:16 am and off to a real breakfast at Miller’s Landing. Eggs over medium, hashbrowns, sausage, wheat toast and coffee. We need a break from the continental breakfasts every few days.

A short drive north took us to Livermore, Iowa. This is a small town of about 430 in the middle of...corn fields. Downtown is less than a block long and at 11:30 am there were no cars other than ours and no one other than us in sight. No one. Really kinda of eerie.

A nice lady at the city hall gave us directions to the Union Cemetery. Pretty simple really. Turn right before you cross the bridge. Barb was skeptical. How did she know I would get lost? After exploring (that’s what I call being lost) for a short time we followed well worn ruts into a pretty little cemetery surrounded by...corn fields.

With a general idea of where the graves might be found we headed out on the search. Today was my turn and after about 20 minutes I called Barb over the McCauley graves (great great grandfather.) After a few photos we headed back for a last drive through Livermore and then out to Renwick.

Even with a smaller population, Renwick seemed larger than Livermore. We drove around town several times and actually saw some residents. Anyway, just like all the other little towns we have passed through in Iowa it was really fun to see. Really kinda nice to see towns that are clean and well kept. And just how do they get along without graffiti? Too bad it’s so hot and humid in the summer and cold in the winter.

Next it was back to Humboldt and the Carnegie Library, which Barb discovered was home to the Humboldt County Historical Society. Actually it was just a small corner of the library, but there was a wealth of information. We spent a lot of time going through the obituaries and an 800+ page book on the history of Humboldt County. Turns out my great great grandfather George C. McCauley was, according to the book, one of the most influential citizens in the north part of the county. He not only farmed 600 acres, but also served two terms as County Sheriff, built the roller-skating rink in Livermore, laid out the 30 acre McCauley addition, owned business in Livermore and produced a daughter Rachel Belle McCauley. Perhaps it is more than just coincidence that my middle name is McCauley.

After all that heavy reading it was back to Miller’s Landing for a beer. Later we had a quick dinner and got ready to drive to Algonquin, Illinois. Do they have corn in Illinois? 75 miles today.

Day 4 - Omaha, NB to Humboldt, IA

After three days of steady driving we deserved a good day. We didn’t get one. Instead we got a great day. But more on that later.

Got up a little late and didn’t get on the road till 7:29. After struggling to find the motel last night I wasn’t about to go in search of a Starbucks in Omaha. Asked the desk clerk to get me on a freeway and out of town as quickly as possible. He did. Interstate 29 North to Sioux Falls, Iowa.

I have to say Sioux Falls is a place we could live, except for the hot humid summers and cold winters. Then again maybe it’s not. Anyway, found a Starbucks and this time it was only 98 miles.

After Sioux Falls it was off the interstate and onto the roads less traveled. Four lanes gave way to two. Rest stops ceased to exist. Road maintenance consisted of filling cracks with black goo. But there is corn. Lots of corn. And lots of corn makes everything better. It’s different than Nebraska corn. Iowa corn doesn’t fray at the edges. And where corn was missing there were soybeans. And everywhere there were farmhouses and little towns and silos and John Deere dealers. It was like being transported to a better place and how great is that.

The roads we followed led to Sutherland, Iowa. First stop was Waterman Cemetery. After a half hour or so of searching Barb found the Hitchings graves. William 1849-1924 and Clara 1854-1937, my great grand-parents. Photos of the gravestones and then on to the next quest. I had a photo of my grandmother and five of her sisters taken in front of their home in Sutherland. It was taken about 1900. I wanted to find that house. After much unsuccessful driving up and down streets I asked a mail carrier if he knew the house. No, but try someone at the bank. Two employees there said it looked familiar and gave me an address. It was the house. As best I can tell it was built around 1882. More photos. I count the cemetery and house as two greats.

A picnic lunch at the town park finished our visit and it was off to Humboldt, Iowa. 76 miles later we were at our motel (the only one in town.) And what a nice surprise in our room. Tequila Rose from some good friends at home. He born in Humboldt and she in Renwick. Another great. We split a great steak dinner and are now all tucked in for the night. Tomorrow we are off to Livermore, Iowa, in search of a great great grandfather and a visit to Renwick, Iowa, because we like people from Renwick. 327 miles today.

Day 3 - Laramie, WY to Omaha, NB

Up early, continental breakfast (how continental can a small bowl of raisin bran be?) and out of the parking lot at 6:29 am. First stop was across the street for a fill up of $2.59 gasoline. I said $2.75 last night, which means I now like Wyoming even more.

Starbucks was at the local Safeway. As we were walking up to the entrance a pickup with Washington plates stopped and dropped off a lady. I asked if she was here for Starbucks. Of course she was. So were we. She and her husband live in Battleground, Washington, where Barb’s brother and his wife live. So, this is a good time to say hello to Don and Loretta. Hi guys.

On to Interstate 80 headed east toward Cheyenne, Wyoming. Clearly not a good idea to head in that direction early in the morning. Nothing but sun in the eyes, but within an hour all was fine. That last hour in Wyoming was actually kinda pretty.

A short time after passing through Cheyenne, we crossed over into Nebraska. Speed limit still 75, so I’m liking the state already. At that point we were in a bit of a hurry, because of a stop we wanted to make at the Cabela’s in Sidney, Nebraska. Got there promptly at 9:00 am only to find they open at 10:00 am on Sunday. No problem, there is another one in Kearney, Nebraska. So off we went, stopping only for a quick picnic lunch at a really nice roadside rest.

So we get to Kearney and spend about 45 minutes wandering around town looking for Cabela’s. Barb suggests I ask someone. What! Ask for directions? Not a chance. By comparing the map on the BlackBerry with the Honda navigation system I nail it. Then great disappointment. This Cabela’s has got to be the worst. We leave. But wait, the barista this morning mentioned a new Cabela’s in her hometown of Omaha. So off again.

I anticipated seeing a lot of corn in Nebraska. It’s the cornhusker state right? Well there was some, but not up to my expectation. A little on one side of the road, then a little on the other side for mile after mile. Then a great change came over the state. Corn everywhere. Both sides of the road at the same time. If I had ever found a hill I’m sure I would have seen corn out to the horizon. But there are no hills in Nebraska, so I’m only guessing about the horizon thing.

Approaching Omaha Barb programmed Best Western into the nav system. About 9.5 miles from the motel there it is. Right beside the freeway. Cabela’s! And one interchange away a Cracker Barrel. Cabela’s first. With 35 minutes to closing I managed one item on my list and Barb happened upon two shirts. As they were turning off the lights we headed for Cracker Barrel for the small portion of chicken and dumplings.

Now to find the motel. Nav system programmed. Should be no problem. Which means…problem. Finally I ask for directions (I know guys, but don’t hold in against me) by calling the motel and having Amanda talk me all the way to the parking lot. In my defense I will point out that this Best Western is only reached by going through (yes through) the Omaha Social Security Administration parking lot. True story. Must remember to email Best Western about Amanda.

Added a 5th state today (Nebraska), still a few to go. Tomorrow off to Iowa for two days. 601 miles today.

Day 2 - Burley, ID to Laramie, WY

Up early, continental breakfast and out of the parking lot at exactly 7:30 am. No coffee in sight. This day we will drive 157.3 miles to Ogden, Utah to find a Starbucks. And there in the parking lot of this Starbucks, which was way off the freeway in what was almost a residential area, were two other cars with Oregon plates.

So we followed Interstate 84 in a generally southeast direction to Ogden and then Interstate 80 to Wyoming. This drive into Ogden was nice. Lots of potatoes and corn along the way and no traffic. Once into Utah the mountains showed up to the East and then later the Great Salt Lake to the West.

After driving 310 miles to Laramie on Interstate 80 in Wyoming I’m really beginning to rethink my feelings about the scenery in Central Oregon and Idaho. Talk about nothing to look at. Ok, a few rock formations around Rock Springs and a coyote crossing the highway. Oh, and hundreds and hundreds of snow fences. And there was more construction and trucks than we have seen in a long time.

Ok, time for an interesting fact about Wyoming. Ever heard of Trona? It is, and I quote, a water bearing sodium carbonate bearing compound. And Wyoming has the world’s largest deposit, producing over 17.6 million tons a year. Once mined is processed into soda ash or bicarbonate of soda. I’ll leave it to you to further research Trona and its many uses.

And now for Laramie. A Best Western that really wasn’t the best. Based on the amount of rice on the floor there was either a wedding in our room or a past traveler had Chinese takeout. Best Western will receive an email tomorrow. Applebee’s was our selection for dinner. The booth we selected was not available, as the waitress was late. The table we were given did not seem to have a waitress attached to it. So we left. How fortunate. We ended up at Chili’s, had a couple of Coronas and split the chicken fajitas. Oh, and gas in Laramie is $2.75 a gallon.

Now up to four states – Oregon, Idaho, Utah and Wyoming. Got a few to go. Speed limit is still 75. Off to Omaha tomorrow. 563 miles today.

Day 1 - Redmond, OR to Burley, ID

Out of the house and on our way at 6:50 pm. First order of business was three honks of the horn as we passed Neal and Phil’s house. Then a quick stop at the Starbucks in Redmond and on to Highway 20 across Oregon. I can tell you this is mostly a boring drive. There just isn't that much to see in Central Oregon and Idaho is about the same. It's not for a lack of space to contain interesting stuff. There is in fact as much space there as anywhere, it's just that there is not much in it. Not that it's empty of course; there is a heck of a lot of sagebrush for one thing. And dirt roads going off to somewhere. Towns are scarce as are rest stops. Starting the drive with a large anything from Starbucks is problematic.

For those who have never traveled highway 20, there are only two towns of any size. Hines (population 1,623) and Burns (population 3,064) and they are right next to each other. I mean right next to each other. Where one stops the other begins. Go figure.

Weather was pretty nice. Mostly sunshine and 28 degrees, but warming to 66 in the afternoon.

The farmland around Vale, Oregon and on into Ontario, Oregon is a pleasant change from the high desert sagebrush and crossing the Snake River is a nice welcome to Idaho. We had stopped a few miles earlier at a city park in Vale, Oregon for a picnic lunch.

The remainder of the drive on Interstate 84 to Burley was uneventful. Our accommodation the first night was with Fairfield Inn and it was free, which is a very good price. Of course all the prior stays needed to receive that free night...oh never mind.

Dinner was at Garibaldi’s. Sounds Italian, wasn’t. Beef burrito, chicken enchilada, two Dos Equis Amber and very good.

Ok, time to say some nice things about Idaho. Great potatoes. 75 MPH speed limit. Exceptional rest stops. 512 miles today.