Up early, packed and on the road before daybreak. The darkness left us pretty much alone on the road, which, on a two-lane highway, is something to be appreciated. There’s nothing quite like having the road to yourself—especially when “yourself” is driving at an hour when even the deer are still in bed.
Since our innkeeper had neglected to provide breakfast and Depoe Bay was still asleep, we drove 60 miles south to Florence. There, we fueled up on a shared apple fritter and the usual Starbucks. Not a champion’s breakfast, but it got us down the road. And if you ever need a pastry in Florence, we highly recommend Big Dog Donuts & Deli. The name and old gas-station location may give pause, but don’t.
The drive today had very little traffic, beautiful views of the Oregon coast, good roads and clear skies—all the ingredients for a pretty great day on the road. It’s hard to complain when ingredients like those do all the hard work.
We stopped in Bandon for a little walkabout and happened upon the early-morning crabbers just getting to work. It was a nice folks out catching a fresh crab diner rather than taking previously frozen home.
Occasionally we find a restaurant that really stands out for lunch or dinner, and we try to work it into future drives. Heading south along the coast rather than north created a bit of a timing problem for lunch today. Favorites like the Crazy Norwegian (closed) and The Wheelhouse & Crowsnest (we were too early) both struck out.
Before leaving home, my research had turned up Catalyst Seafood in Brookings, and what a find it was. Barb had the fish tacos, which she declared the best ever. Now that’s high praise, because if Barb knows anything, she knows fish tacos. Crispy oysters were also on the menu, and “crispy” means deep-fried. I asked if the chef could pan-fry them instead, and he agreed. The result was a really fine oyster lunch—and proof that sometimes it pays to ask for what you want.
In spite of the daily warnings to watch for deer and elk, we had yet to see either one. I was beginning to suspect the signs were nothing more than an elaborate scheme to get drivers to slow down. That theory ended today when we passed an elk ranch where 40 or more elk were roaming freely—and apparently unfenced—alongside the road. And yes, every driver slowed down.
Once into California, two things happened. First, we ran into fog\. Okay, it was light fog, but fog just the same\. Second, forward progress was halted three times by road construction. The first delay was lengthy; the other two were more tolerable.
I understand that this is the time of year for road construction, after most vacations have been taken and traffic has thinned out. I understand the logic. I just don’t have to like it.
Dinner tonight was at Cafe Waterfront in Eureka, one of those time-tested restaurants we can count on and will call on every time we’re in town. Barb had the grilled red snapper, while I went with the pan-fried oysters. Once again, we left more than satisfied with both the food and the service.
Tomorrow we are off to an overnight in Salinas,, California. I'll close tonight with a quick look at the Oregon coast.
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